ON TOUR Pics Archive #2 2006
These images have been made on a 5megPixel Point and Shoot camera, the ones taken from aeroplanes have also been taken through three inch thick, dirty glass. They have not been chosen for their technical merit, rather to add colour to the stories..
SCROLL DOWN TO SEE THEM, IN REVERSE CHRONOLOGICAL ORDER ...
To see the previous
ON TOUR Pics Archive #1 2006
Click HERE
Muscat, Oman
Air India Baggage
If you need a reason why you should use hard shell baggage, here it is. India's airports work on the principal that you keep piling the bags on top until the bottom one bursts. Note that the top bags are higher than the tallest Indian. Imagine how the top bag got there. Now imagine the top bag being thrown up by two guys, sailing over the top, sliding-off and falling down the other side. That's when you need the next trolley... And of course, the bag that has survived the big fall is now placed as the bottom bag on the new trolley.
Acropolis, Athens
Bored Bouzouki
This is one happy band. Mid-winter in Athens. The audience takes a long time to warm up. As does the band. The singer, second from the right, just sat, glared and smoked for an hour until her chance to star. Then she smiled, and everyone started dancing.
Greek Restaurants
Picture this same scene during summer. Every table would be full, people would be standing in the streets, chatting, drinking and dancing. In winter, with night temperatures dropping to -3 C, men standing in big jackets stand outside the entrance to each restaurant, imploring passers-by to drop in ... tempting them with free glasses of Ouzo. It works!
Camera Scam
This is a classic trick. The aging photographer enters the restaurant with a nice Mamiya Press Camera around his neck, procuring work from romantic diners. When they say that they can't wait for the two weeks for the prints, he offers a much cheaper option, revealing his other camera with a flourish ... a cheap Polaroid! The Mamiya Press probably doesn't have any film in it. I wonder if he does passport photos.
Restaurant Shopping
It's easy to get a table in Athens in January, when it's freezing. Diners survey the opportunities. Too many choices.
Athena Souvenir Salesman
Wouldn't you rather close the business in winter? Instead this man sticks around, trying to sell postcards to the few sniffling tourists who shuffle past.
Greek Wind Farms
Wind generators stalk every ridge of the mountains on the island of Euboea, above the small Greek coastal town of Karystos.
Dubai Balloon Festival
It's ok, you're not seeing things ... the one on the right is a huge chook! With the winter mornings a crisp 16 degrees, and the early evenings about 22, the 100 or so Balloonists have been having a ball since the Festival began, coinciding with the Dubai Shopping Festival and the Christmas / Eid / New Year holidays.
Kolkatta Luxury
The Salt Lake Hyatt in India's Kolkatta (Calcutta) provides a welcome oasis amidst a sad, rubbish tip for the visiting consultants and business travellers.
World Game
Like the TV ad for the World Game, these future soccer stars practise their moves in the dust, with bare feet. Oblivious to the seething, tooting traffic only metres away, their focus is only on the ball.
India: Over One Billion People
Over 4 million of its menfolk working in the Gulf States (63% in Saudi and 15% in the UAE), send back 5 Billion US Dollars annually to prop up India's economy. The population is swayed toward men, with 1.06 men to every woman. In a country where no tap water is fit to drink, and which is less than half the size of Australia, the average age is 25.
In Kolkatta, Life Is A Struggle
In all of India the life expectancy is much less than other developed countries: only 65 years. One gets the impression that since Ghandi and Neru convinced the English to leave in 1947, investment in infrastructure ceased altogether. A massive 33% of the population earn the top 10% of income, which is why there is a boom in air travel and airline startups. But with a billion people, any percentage means a big number. For example, HIV AIDS infects less than one percent of the population, but that figure translates to 5.1 million.
What Is It About The Rubbish?
Having lived in Vietnam which has its own poverty problem (19% Vietnamese below the poverty line as opposed to 25% Indians), it is shocking to see the differences on the ground, between the two cities, Ho Chi Minh City and Kolkatta. Aside from the six men publicly urinating beside the road on the way in from the airport ('Welcome To India'), the amount litter is indescribable. By contrast, Vietnam's pride in its appearance draws tourists. Tourists bring money. Money defeats poverty.
Kolkatta
Look carefully to the right of the street trader, and see the rubbish which layers the dirt like a septic Floccati rug beside every road.
Cumulous Granite
The British Airways 747 flies over the Iranian snow-capped mountains, sneakily hidden amongst solid, snow-covered rock. Reminding you of an old Pilot joke: "Hey, Captain... what's that goat doing standing on that cloud?" ... "Whoaa!! PULL UP !! That's not a cloud!"
Roll Cloud, The Maldives
This small Roll Cloud preceding the storm (the white wall moving in from the left) cautions Pilots who have to hold for ten minutes while the preceding arrival taxis back down Male's single runway, itself a tiny island in the Indian Ocean. As well, their weather radar shows the most active parts of the storm.
Full Reverse Thrust
The Emirates A330 has full reverse thrust selected after landing on Male's wet runway. Most effective at high speed, the Engine's upper Reverser Door can be seen, deflecting the jet blast forwards. The lower door is obscured by water spray from the runway, angled in in such a manner so as to prevent water ingestion by the engine.
Male, Maldives
The high level of moisture in the air can be confirmed by the tiny condensation trail from the A330 wingtip as the aircraft banks right after takeoff to set course to Colombo, Sri Lanka. The runway is at the centre of the picture, one third down from the top. In December 2006 the world's rich gathered in The Maldives to bask in the sun ... but for two weeks it rained everyday.
Worst Job, Dubai
The person with the worst job in Dubai is this unfortunate Indian man, working on a just another building project in Al Barsha. Hundreds of workers visit these cubicles at least twice daily - his is a very important but thankless task.
Another Hole in the Ground
This one is next to the distinctive UP Tower (it looks like a cross between an Asparargus Tip and New York's famous Chrysler Building) in Sheikh Sayed Road, Dubai. Nothing will appear to happen behind this hoarding for about a year. Then suddenly another concrete tower will rise from the ground as if on a lift. Dubai will soon have 300,000 new two bedroom apartments to house the huge influx of expats.
More Cranes Than Anywhere
Except China. After spending six months seated in his cab 12 hours a day, this Dubai Crane Driver watches as workers dismantle his workspace around him before moving him on to the next job.
Dubai Creek
This side of the creek is known as Diera, the other side Bur Dubai. In the distance is the architectural canyon on Sheikh Zayed Road. The winter fog which regularly blankets the city has burnt-off, mixed with the commuter traffic and become smog.
Dubai Airport
Dubai's only functioning runway, 12 Left, emerges from the haze on a winter morning. The reopening of the lengthened 12 Right and the new terminal to herald the arrival of the A380 will increase the capacity to about 40 million passengers a year.
Fujairah Anchorage
The coordinates of the anchorage are given as 25.10 N, 56.21 E - but actually the 130 or so huge rusting oil tankers, (not shown very well in this shot) lie south of the 25th Parallel of Latitude. Fujairah's prominence as a convenient 'bunker stop' was born out of the Iran / Iraq war in the mid 1980's. The only ship's entrance to the Gulf, through the Straits of Hormuz, was mined and tankers were also targeted by Iranian fire. Passage became restricted to US and Royal Navy-protected convoys. Fujairah is in the outer Gulf, and as vessels queued up waiting to go through the strait in convoys, Fujairah came into its own with services aimed towards the waiting ships. After the Iran / Iraq war, Fujairah was well established as a popular anchorage for tankers waiting for employment in the Gulf. Then when the first Iraq war started the insurance companies charged huge premiums for anyone travelling above the 25th parallel. So many parked here and waited, and waited, and waited. Most decaying ships have a solitary Fillipino aboard, to turn the lights on and off and at night. Looking after their welfare, and helping repatriate those whose ship owners have gone broke, is the Stella Maris Centre, who could do with your support, click HERE.
Typhoon Anchorage, Hong Kong
The active Hong Kong fishing fleet mixes it with big buildings in the shadow of Victoria Peak on Hong Kong Island.
Always On The Job
Two Hong Kong Fisherman pass the time of day aboard their fishing boat moored in the harbour, the guy on the left precariously balanced on the ship's gunwale.
Jumbo Kingdom Restaurant
Restaurateur and overall Owner of almost everything in Hong Kong, Stanley Ho, owns this floating museum, the Jumbo Kingdom restaurant. Frequented by tourists and even once by James Bond (he had the chicken), it is a little pricey but they say that the night time view of the lights on the water make up for it. Seeing it during the day, and going behind to see its 'back alley' left a lasting image that is somewhat spoiled.
Hong Kong Harbour & Kowloon
The view from the famous Victoria Peak on Hong Kong Island is usually spoiled by cloud, rain, haze or smog. On this particular day the photo vendors who hawk 10x8 inch photos like this to tourists robbed of a view were not happy.
Aerial Pick-Up Sticks
Careful to remove the correct bamboo scaffold for fear of falling to oblivion from the 20 storey tower, these Hong Kong Scaffolders are removing the tied bamboo poles with razor sharp knives. After choosing the correct one (very carefully) they cut the knot and pass the pole to the man below. The process continues under a shower of falling string knots until all the poles are stacked neatly and the side of the building is clear. Back to the top, sharpen their knives, and after a break, down the next side of the building. All four sides were cleared of scaffolding in a days' work. ...
The Burmese Hump
In
WWII, when the Japanese closed the road from
The Hump
Towards the end of the campaign, every three minutes would see another C47 (DC3) struggling over The Hump, right on the limit of its altitude capability. Weather; in the form of monsoonal rain, cloud and the invisible updrafts funnelling up the valleys; and mechanical failure caused many crashes. The Japanese fighters, accounted for the rest from their base at Myitkyina until stopped by the courageous Merrill's Maurauders. The famous Flying Tigers were born from that campaign, its remnants forming the huge air freight company. Many smuggling operations, of cigarettes and gold were also conducted within the military operation resulting in many courts martial of US Air Force personnel ... and execution of their Chinese ‘business partners’. Ultimately the campaign was a massive success involving 772 aircraft and 84,000 personnel at the end of the war. Figures vary, but at least 500 planes were lost and 1,000 airmen killed.
Mount Everest
Approaching mid winter, this image was taken using Serengeti sunglasses to cut the glare. From as far away as 200kms this mountain range is impressive as huge rooster tails of snow are blown off the top of the mountains, hanging there like permanent white smudges. After looking-up the Wind Chart for our flight to Hong Kong we interpolated the wind to be at 240 kph on top of the mountains. give or take. No wonder the climbing season is short. One definition of insanity would be to try and walk up it without oxygen.
Lake Zurich
The current holders of the America's Cup, the Swiss, have a small but important nautical background. Their Navy's 10 boats currently patrol the three Swiss Lakes: Lake Zurich, Lake Geneva, Lake Constance and the Swiss end of Italy's Lake Maggiore.
Postcard Stereotype
Gross Munster (Great Minster) Church, on the right hand side of the Limmat River as it leaves Lake Zurich, was first built in 820 AD. The present church, whose two towers Richard Wagner described as pepper grinders, was commissioned in 1100 AD and finally completed in 1220 AD.
Old Master
Lake Zurich's shoreline looks like something out of an Old Masters oil painting as the autumn colours shine in the afternoon sunshine.
Naked Escalators
Zurich's Airport cannily sits above its own railway station. While waiting, bored passengers can look at the normally-hidden workings of the escalators.
Al Ffffff-resco Dddd-ining
Optimism must be applauded, whenever you find it. This Zurich Cafe owner tries to extend the summer weather into autumn and convince people to sit outside. The sheepskin seat covers are a nice touch ... but guests are put off by the waiter wearing ski gloves...
Memories Of Christmas
In Zurich the store windows are all about the Yuletide. Most of the dummies have no memory on which to draw. Not so this Reindeer, who after his appointment with the Taxidermist, is frozen in time after a life grazing in the snow and flying trips around the world every Christmas.
Shall We Declare It A Race?
Pilots rarely race anymore. With the cost of fuel so high, and the computerised flight plans so accurate, the job is all about managing energy and providing the safest operational standards for the paying passengers. So when a Boeing 747 2,000 feet below slowly pulls ahead and the temptation is to declare it a race, these days we just get out the camera instead.
Noah's Ark Parked Here
At the top of screen is Turkey's highest mountain, Mt.Ararat. At 16,854 feet, it and its smaller friend, Mt.Sis (about 4,000 feet shorter) are formed from the same base. Just imagine how angry God was ... and how much rain must have fallen in the 40 days and nights for Noah's boat to be floating around above this hill ... for it's apparently on Mt Ararat that Noah's Ark came to rest when the waters receded. Now, just where did all the water go?
Always Vigilant Over High Terrain
While you are sitting in the back of the plane enjoying the movie, you are unaware of what is happening up front. This Navigation Display shows the Pilots that within 40 Nautical Miles around the plane the minimum safe altitude that they can descend-to in a pressurisation emergency is 14,200 feet (MORA 14.2 on the left); that there are two aircraft below us (one 1,900' and 5,900' below); the weather radar (green dots) are showing no storms to worry about; and the green line which is the Flight Plan Route. The white line shows the escape route between the mountains to two emergency airports in case a passenger has a heart attack: Tabriz and Baku.
Zagros Mountains
Iranian's Zagros Mountains run for 1500 kms, parallel to the northeast coast of the Arabian Gulf to a spectacular height of 16,998 feet. Formed by a massive collision of the Arabian and Asian tectonic plates they look like they were formed about a week ago ... but there are proven signs that agricultural activities were happening about 9,000 BC. A fossilised snail, about 2kgs, was found at an altitude of about 12,000 feet ... 50 million years ago it was deep in the ocean.
Abu Dhabi Beachfront
The capital city of the United Arab Emirates is Abu Dhabi. Tethered to Dubai by an eight lane freeway which runs parallel to the coast through the desert for about 120kms, (and eighty speed cameras which few drivers seem to worry about), the notable difference between the cities is that the Abu Dhabi taxi drivers don't seem to be Indians or Pakistanis, but instead, locals.
Palm On The Horizon
As soon as the weather cools in Autumn, Dubai's citizens flock to the beaches during weekends. On the horizon is the massive building project called The Palms which, no doubt, will be able to be seen from space.
The Ultimate Light Show
Three times a night in Cairo, the Pyramids, Sphinx and Mummification preparation buildings are bathed in light during a spectacular sound and light show. The story of the ancient world's biggest architectural achievement is told in three different languages a night. Modern lighting rigs can be seen in the foreground above a stage set for an upcoming orchestral performance.
The Sphinx
Wait For Me!
In Cairo, the capital of Egypt, the traffic is horrendous. Every time the cars stop, so does this little white truck. The co-driver's job is to get out and provide a push-start. The truck lurches forward and the co-driver runs to catch up. He's lost 20 kg in the last month...
No Carrots Here
Cairo, the largest city in Africa and the Middle East, has about 20 million people. 20% live below the poverty line and their donkeys provide their commercial transport. Whereas cars are addicted to petrol, donkeys can get by nicely on carrots. If only there were carrots...
Silent Sentinels
The first glimpse of the Pyramids of Giza comes from a raised roadway (most highways are raised here) running over fields between suburbs. Contrary to popular belief the Pyramids are not out in the middle of the desert, but right on the edge of the city.
Albino Donkey
Farm workers wave to the photographer. The donkey is as important to the farmers in Egypt as the water buffalo is to the farmers in Vietnam.
Giza Shopping Centre
Life goes on as normal under the shadow of one of the Seven Wonders Of the Ancient World, the Great Pyramid Of Giza, (the other two aren't actually on the list of Wonders). As far as the young boy in the foreground cares, seen 'em once .. seen 'em all.
Tallest Structure In The World
For 48 centuries, the Great Pyramid was originally 148 metres high (481 feet!) Since it was completed in about 2,540 BC it has lost about 10 metres. The cap which can be seen is all that is left of the shiny white limestone covering. The Egyptian camels used by the Tourist Police are a much lighter colour than those in Australia or in the Middle East around the Gulf.
Ticket Office
An assortment of characters crowd around the Giza Pyramids Ticket Office. Within minutes of arriving the tourists are being haggled for Camel Rides, offered trinkets and drinks.
I'll Wait Outside
Whilst family and friends venture inside the Great Pyramid, this lady sits in the shade of the huge structure. In the sunshine it's 35 degrees. In the shadow, the stones are remarkably chilly. Inside the cramped stifling, 1.0 metre wide and 1.2 metre high tunnels (exact measurements), the air is warm and 'close'. Just when you feel a wave of claustrophobia approaching, you reach an air shaft where you can stand up fully and have a breather. In the burial chamber the Sarcophagus is oriented in accordance with the compass directions, and is only about 1 cm smaller in dimensions than the chamber entrance.
Guardian
Guarding the entrance to the Great Pyramid, with the city of Cairo in the background, is the most senior Tourist Policeman. He was asleep when we arrived.
Uniform Slope
The sloping angle of the Great Pyramid's sides is 51 degrees and 51 minutes. Each side is carefully oriented with one of the cardinal points of the compass, that is, north, south, east, and west. The horizontal cross section of the pyramid is square at any level, with each side measuring 229 m (751 ft) in length. The maximum error between side lengths is less than 0.1%
ANZAC Spirit In The Pyramid's Shadow
Cairo figures strongly in the Anzac history. Australian and New Zealand soldiers were sent here for training prior to the Gallipoli debacle which saw 8,907 Australians killed and 19,441 wounded, (no figures for the Kiwis, other than 147 who died as a result of the first day's fighting). After the battle they retreated to Egypt and later saw action again, helping to stop the Turks from seizing the Suez Canal. They left two lasting images: One, photos of themselves standing at the Pyramids, in many cases the last image left to many families. Two, the Aussie Gum Tree which now is as common in Cairo as it is in Australian city. The Egyptian President drives home along a driveway shaded by them. On the Giza plateau, there is one tree. Only one. This one. A gum tree. The first Anzac Day service, on April 25th 1916, was commemorated here, as well as in Australia and New Zealand.
James Of Arabia
T.E.Lawrence, in his book, The Seven Pillars Of Wisdom, wrote about the trick to riding a camel. He lied. The Australian Gum tree can be seen near the Pyramid in the background. (this picture was taken by a Camel Driver)
Smug Camel
After successfully ditching the rider, (after much complaining), this Cairo Camel adopts a Pyramidic Pose ... and shuts up for the length of time the lens was open.
Green Eyed Camel Driver
Realising that his stunning green eyes are photogenic, this Camel Driver slips good luck charms into your hand .. "no money, free for you!" and then shames you into handing over a small tip... until he sees how small it is... "No, give me the other note..."
Pyramid
Pyramid Police
Armed to the teeth, (are there bullets in those guns?), the Tourist Police shelter on the shaded cold stones at the base of the Pyramid. Protecting Egypt's antiquities seems to employ a huge number of the citizens and this tourist wonders as to their effect. After seeing how easy it was for the Taliban to destroy the giant statue of Buddha, in Afghanistan in March 2001, one is left with a niggling sense of impending doom.
Giza, Egypt
Gum trees provide a green barrier between the Giza Plateau and the suburb below.
Staff Facilities Are Lacking
At the site of the Great Pyramid. And the hours are long. The art of 'wall-sleeping' no doubt is the perfect demonstration of natural selection. If you can't do it successfully you tumble to your death, leaving only the fit to survive.
Alert But Not Alarmed
The Camel is within a metre of a significant cliff, proving that Dachshunds, although vertically challenged, are smarter. Try getting one to stand that close... good luck.
Memorable Car Fire
Most people, when remembering about the day their car exploded in flames, have trouble remembering exactly where they were, to the metre. Not this guy. He'll never forget. The Pyramid is fifty metres to the left.
Limestone Cap
The white Limestone which once covered the entire structure, can be found in the buildings of Cairo, raided by locals. Huge red granite rocks litter the ground around the base of the Pyramid, either fallen off or discarded during the building process and too heavy to move. Nowadays the entire area is protected.
The Great Pyramid Is Also Big
It
consists of approximately 2 million blocks of stone, each weighing more
than two tons and today, no-one really knows how they were put into
place. The area covered by the Great Pyramid can accommodate St Peter's in
Three Wise Men
For a special treat, grab a few friends and take a Camel Ride a few hundred metres into the desert to get another perspective on the Pyramids.
Old & New
On the north face is the pyramid's entrance. A number of corridors, galleries, and escape shafts either lead to the King's burial chamber, or were intended to serve other functions. The King's chamber is located at the heart of the pyramid, only accessible through the Great Gallery and an ascending corridor. The King's sarcophagus is made of red granite, as are the interior walls of the King's Chamber. Most impressive is the sharp-edged stone over the doorway which is over 3 m (10 ft) long, 2.4 m (8 feet) high and 1.3 m (4 ft) thick. All of the interior stones fit so well, a card won't fit between them.
Camel Driver Cafe
It's Ramadan, so even though it's hot and thirsty work, no drink will pass these guys' lips until sunset. The drinks are for the tourists who have driven to this desert hill top to gaze on the Pyramids in the distance.
Rock Art
Hiding amongst the red granite rocks littering the base of the Pyramid, a Police Camel waits for action.
Tattooed Performer
More a performer than work horse, this Camel, (when not complaining), kisses his Driver. Note the tattooing around his nose.
Yes Richard, It's A Boy!
It's not as bad as it looks. Richard is captivated by the Camel's tattoos. The photo, taken by the Camel Driver, manages to capture the millisecond when its mouth was closed. Camel Breath? Ugh!
Desert Rally Finish
If you are going to finish a Desert Rally, what better location than the Pyramids?
Sponsor's Dream
A Russian Rally team faces the media barrage after finishing the Desert Rally.
What It's All About
A bottle of Moet is jammed between the seats for later use. The crew is chatting to anyone who listens about the event.
Sphinx & Pyramid
Morgue Guardian
This man spends his day watching the tourists leave the embalming / mummification complex near the Sphinx. This area is where the bodies were prepared, a process taking two months, before making their way up the stone causeway to the 'Solar Boat' a boat where the body would reside until being placed inside the Pyramid. All the organs were removed and placed in four small urns within the Sarcophagus. Only the heart remained in the body.
Nifty Restaurant Table
Money changes hands between Tour Guide and Maitre'd, allowing the tourists to enjoy lunch at one of the most spectacular tables in the world.
Dividing The Spoils
Young boys help themselves to leftovers from the Tourist's plates at the abovementioned restaurant. Some tourists are appalled to see poverty first hand and have to be reminded that these guys are the lucky ones. With unemployment at 9.5% and 20% of the population below the poverty line there are many, many boys who have no spoils to divide.
Donkey Power I
The graceful motion of the Camel and Horse are lost on the Donkey. They give the impression that they are in on the joke of carting humans around, they seem to enjoy it. Not so the Donkey. He hasn't time to think about it. He has an important task on hand. Ears back, short jerky, serious movements, sometimes straining in harness, at other times, on the downhill stretches it's hard to see who is pulling and who is pushing.
Donkey Power II
The Driver's stick is always there. No let-up. No Coke, no KFC, nothing like the story books. No hat, no daisy, and no carrots.
2 Fast 2 Furious
Is the sign on the windscreen. Crammed full with Coppers, this van is set with maximum engine cooling. And doesn't care if it hits brand new BMWs. Nothing to lose.
Heads Are Best
Who needs a donkey? Cairo is the first place where I have seen articles carried on heads. Bread seems to be especially balanceable.
Papyrus Artist
Reeds from the Nile are the best. Cheap tourist shops use banana leaves that are dark and discolour quickly. The triangular cross section leaves are stripped of the green outer coating, sliced into thin strips and soaked in water for six days. Rolling pins remove the water and the strips are overlaid to make a page. Into a press for another six days. After drying the paper is able to take ink. The road to Giza is littered with Papyrus Galleries and tourist buses.
Taxi Skirmish
The local Cairo newspaper is raising concerns about road rage, supposedly a recent innovation. It's a common story in the newspapers of Bahrain, Melbourne and Dubai at the moment. What is it about life today that makes minor traffic skirmishes seem so important?
Hunger
Like Lion Cubs waiting for the Pack Leader to have his fill at a recently-felled carcass, these young boys wait, eyes-downcast, for the moment to strike. Or do they? It's easy for a passer-by to make up a story to suit a preconception. The boys are probably just on their way to school.
Tyre Change On Way To School
The boy in the red shirt holds his pony still while the flat tyre is changed.
High Tech Garbologist
Mobile phone in hand, legs dangling off the back of the truck, this man hopes the cars behind stop in time.
Two Minutes To Go
Until their Ramadan fast can be broken, hundreds of Cairo's Muslims prepare to feast.
Shift Change
Overloading a taxi is quite alright when it's done by members of the Law.
Survival Is Serious Business
A slight tug on your shirt, you look around and there's a young girl with her brother on her hip and a hand out for money. It may be a setup, a small family team controlled by hungry parents in the wings. Or they may be orphans. Either way it breaks your heart.
The Women Wait
On the edge of the city square women and children wait for their husbands to return from the Mosque and the market.
The Market Is Packed
From soon after the Ifta feast the city's old market begins teeming with locals and tourists. Every storeholder offering an urgent bargain.
Off The Beaten Track
The best deals are to be found in the tiny back lanes, where the tourists rarely venture.
Are These War Relics?
Many shops carry old army compasses and watches. Some have old cameras. Were some of these carried into war? What stories could each tell?
Shisha Smokers Watch The Passing Parade
The fruit flavoured tobacco is placed at the top of the Shisha in a special holder. A piece of burning charcoal is placed on top and the smoke is drawn down a Hookah Pipe into the water chamber and bubbled through another pipe to the addict.
Young Boy Hangs Onto Dad
The grip is vice-like as his father carries the large basket through the huge crowd preparing to break their Ramadan fast.
O.D. Cairo Style
We have seen Opposite Direction Gutter-Riding Hondas in Saigon, Vietnam; but could not believe that people would have the courage to try it with small trucks! Just when you think you've seen it all. The traffic in Cairo moves at the same speed as the Vietnamese, about 30 kph; and rarely stops dead.
Armed Police Show Restraint
Out front of major shopping centre a troubled man abuses Police at the top of his voice. There was obviously a story behind it and it was interesting to note how the Police showed restraint, despite the abuse. It's doubtful that Police in other countries would put up with this much ragging. In the end he was quietly led away by a Senior Officer.
Nile Cruise
The mighty Nile River flows 'up the map', so the Upper Nile is actually near Egypt's southern border with Sudan, as it flows from the massive Lake Nasser to Alexandria on the Mediterranean Sea. Passing through Cairo, (which is at least 150kms from the sea), the river splits around two islands. The northernmost, Zamalik, is a very expensive suburb, attracting the well-off and expat professionals and is very Parisian. On its western side, the Nile is fast-flowing as it squeezes between the island and the bank, slowing again as it joins the main river.
Night Sailing, Nile Style
Power gives way to sail. But only when you can see sail. It's about 23 degrees at 10pm and this Skipper chances it with the flotilla of restaurant boats who ply their trade between 8.30pm and 10.30pm each night.
Thumb Cymbals
Our cruise, on the Saphire, rated about 2/10. The Thumb Cymbal Player was an easy 10/10, making about four distinctly different sounds and keeping the time for whole band.
Whirling Dervish
The Turkish obviously export their talented Whirling Dervishes to the Egyptian Nile Restaurant boat owners who figure that they'll never get sea-sick. This one spun clockwise for at least 30 minutes non-stop, almost juggled tambourines and delighted the crowd with a finale which has to be seen. We wanted to stop him and start him spinning anti-clockwise to see what would happen.
Belly Dancer
It is said that, during Ramadan, the Belly Dancers have to wear a more conservative dress. We were hoping for the 'I Dream Of Genie' style. But according to the TV show, Genie came from Damascus, Syria; spoke American English, was blonde and had a costume which had probably been designed by a Hollywood studio. What were we thinking?
Dubai, Looking East
Rental prices in the next emirate (state) to Dubai, Sharjah, are much more economical. So that's where many thousands of the employees working in the Jebel Ali Free Zone (Business District) live. It's important to plan your daily travel so as to make sure you give them a wide berth. Tensions are raised. Luckily the strict Zero Drink Driving laws keep things under control.
Dubai, Looking West
Thirty four floors above Dubai's main drag, it's after seven pm and the Sharjah-bound traffic grinds to a halt. One of the newspapers here ran a front page story blaming the daily four-hour commute for executives' health problems. Unlike in Australia, the petrol prices here don't cause any stress.
Home Sweet Home
For those stuck in traffic enroute from their workplaces in Jebel Ali every night they can only dream about being HOME. When they cars are stopped here (at about 7pm), it means they have two hours until they get out of their cars in Sharjah, only about 20 kms down the road. The two new bridges across the Dubai Creek and the planned Metro train will solve this problem.
Skiing Off-Piste Is Prohibited
Outside the Mall Of The Emirates shopping centre, (Chadstone on steroids), the temperature is a steamy 41.5 degrees. Inside the Ski Dubai complex it's a nifty MINUS 10 degrees. The snow is very nice. There are five runs, including a Black Run (Well ... by Dubai's standards). It's about 400m long and the fall is about 60 metres. Charmaine, in the mid station cafe, serves the best On-Piste Hot Chocolates (with M&Ms) in the world. The super-slick operation gets you into freshly-laundered ski clothes and warm boots in minutes. Their Rossignol skis are tuned by professionals. It costs adults about A$80 for a whole day or A$50 for the first two hours, cheaper than a Qantas 747 Sim Test. Check their website.
Snow Park
The little kids and non-skiers can throw snow balls, toboggan, have lessons and catch cold in another section of the Ski Dubai complex.
What The?
A major sponsor of the Port Adelaide Football Club pays for his involvement by avoiding Melbourne's Citilink Toll charges. A wise move. What local government allows B-Double trucks to rumble through the Burke Road Camberwell strip shopping centre during peak shopping time? If you want to sip your coffee without putting up with huge trucks, Albert Park Shopping Centre is very appealing. Take the Number One tram from Swanston Street in the city.
Dubai Architecture
It seems as if all each of the world's prominent architects have been given a big sheet of butcher's paper and fresh crayons by Dubai, a city whose GDP is over 17%, twice that of China. Cranes on steroids stalk the edge of the desert, inserting concrete between the sand and sea.
Dubai Taxis Are Cheap
Which is a good thing, because you're in 'em for longer than you'd think for such a small place of only 3 million people. There are only two places where the creek can be crossed, causing massive jams. Naturally, more bridges are being built, but it's not happening fast enough. A six lane, floating pontoon bridge will soon ease the traffic flow.
Dubai Skyline
Bahrain's Amwaj Islands
The Amwaj Islands, reclaimed off the coast of Bahrain, are taking shape. Great location, nice houses, canal-side living with all the mod-cons. But apparently using the wrong type of water and electricity connections. Expat owners are complaining bitterly that they have been ripped-off by the developers. The developers are blaming the power and water authorities and the saga continues. A tip for buying off the plan ... if it works you can save 30%. If it doesn't, cop the delays and stop complaining!
Bahraini Dhows
A lasting memory, before departing the 45 degree summer heat for Melbourne's winter, are the fishing Dhows of the Arabian Gulf. Note how few people they support. If anyone ever asks you to go onboard one for dinner and dancing, make up an excuse, tell 'em you have to go and start a family or something... The wreck of the Al Dana, in which 57 people perished earlier this year, was taken to the Coast Guard facility, (above left).
The Sun Sets On Bahrain
After what was meant to be a fulltime career for both Collie James and myself (see previous year's pics #2 2005), we were intrigued to be fired without notice by our employer as they outsourced the operations of their corporate aircraft. According to a 2001 Australian Bureau Of Statistics report, 65% of Australian men over 40 years who are retrenched never ever obtain a job again.
A Lot Happens in 441 Days In Bahrain
1.2 years is not a long time, about 1 / 65th of your life, if you are lucky to be average. What hasn't changed, as the evening tide recedes in Manama, are the Bahrainis who park their expensive cars on the drying sand and walk to the waters' edge. But that's about all. The land reclamation, zooming building sites and skyline alter constantly.
Jordan's Taxis Need To Change
With the push to make tourism the number one earner they better do something about the taxis if they wish to attract Westerners. From the hotel to the Airport: No seat belt, windows down, dirty vehicle, no aircon, two cigarettes, two drinks going simultaneously, coffee in one, a clear substance in the other (hopefully water, but sipped like Gin), no meter engagement, the fare "What do you think you should pay? 100US?" ('NO, twenty!'), no change and no receipt. But the driving was very safe ...
The New King Abdullah Of Jordan
Has his faced plastered everywhere, and he looks great. He is a real Action Man, schooled in the UK and USA, Military training in the UK and further studies at Oxford, UK and Georgetown, USA universities. He became a tank Commander, Attack Helicopter Pilot and eventually Special Forces Commando. Is into motorsport, flying, parachuting, scuba diving etc etc and has carried on his late father's legacy to try and make Jordan the most progressive Arab state. His wife, Queen Rania is stunning and together they make a great looking couple. But there is more. She has a degree in Business Administration and worked in banking and IT before marrying. Together they have four children.
The Stunning Dead Sea Is Just Down The Road
Where there are swanky health spas and Hotels. So why would you build the capital city, Amman, where it is? To my eye, this a city with absolutely nothing worth seeing, unless you like cigarette smoke and insane taxi drivers. (And even if you did you could go to Bangkok and at least get cheap DVDs while you were there). However, if you owned a Jordanian Trucking Company you could really clean-up. (The Australian Wheat Board paid kickbacks to Iraq's Saddam Hussein via one such company between Gulf War I & II) Australian Wheat Board paid kickbacks to Iraq's Saddam Hussein via one such company between Gulf War I & II)
No Matter Where You Are, Hunger Is Hunger
Jordan is not exempt from the worldwide dilemma: 'Where is the next meal coming from?' In fact, of the 6 million inhabitants, about 30% live below the poverty line, (according to the CIA World Factbook). The average age is 23 years. With only 3.2% arable land and no oil to export, most of its hopes are pinned on attracting Arabs from the more restrictive states as tourists. Certainly the place is much greener and cooler than Bahrain and the Gulf States.
Alert, Alarmed & Bored Witless In Jordan
Taken before the latest Lebanese crisis, neutral Jordan maintains a strong, public military presence. Here, near the joint public and military King Hussein Hospital, a roundabout gets undivided attention. Further down the road the ever alert machine gunner yells his order to his workmates: "A cup of tea, thanks!"
Hawthorn Football Club
Are the foundations being laid for the new Hawthorn Social Club? Since the old one in Linda Crescent is now history, fans are on the lookout for its replacement. This one is in Bahrain, a country that does not exist in Hawthorn's Membership renewal website. As a result, the club misses out on their Members' subscription fees. They'll make it up when the social club opens.
You Can Almost Walk To Malaysia
On the decks of the waiting ships in Singapore Harbour. The Pasta Fresca Da Salvatore restaurant on the beach at the East Coast Parkway is a pleasant place to spend an evening. Take the insect repellent.
Singapore Taxis Are A Joke
They used to be very good. Their Drivers used to be able to drive. Now they are useless. When they finally arrive you take your life in your hands. Heaven help you if you walk out of a shopping centre at 5pm. It's maybe synonymous with Singapore as a whole. "No-one realises ... everyone has left." The speaker is a senior Singaporean property man, "All the manufacturing companies have gone to Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam and China. Sure, their regional offices are here but we are too expensive now. All we have is shopping and now Dubai is challenging us for that. I have been in the game twenty-seven years and I now work twice as hard for half the money. Unless you are in Banking or IT, Singapore is too expensive now." I don't know about that. But I do know that their taxi drivers couldn't drive a nail through a bar of soap...
Saigon Airport Foot Massage
Before you leave Vietnam, treat yourself to one of the secrets of the airport: a 45 minute foot and head massage. Value for money, it's great; best of all it leaves you with a lasting impression that makes you want to return. In fact, it should be available on the plane. Now there's an idea.